Duck confit with beets

Well the long wait for the confit to age in the fridge is over, the legs had been submerged in the duck fat for a little over two months and it was well and truly time to dig them out and roast them up. You don’t need to age your confit, but doing so intensifies the gamey ducky flavour. The crispy duck leg was served up with a pan seared pickled beet salad and a beet gastrique made using the cider vinegar that pickled the beets.

The night before beetroot was wrapped up in tinfoil along with some aromatics, allspice, cinnamon and peppercorns, baked in a moderate oven until tender then left to cool. When cool enough to handle, unpack the beets and rub off the skin, slice into bite size wedges, place in a container and cover with cider vinegar and a little salt. Refrigerate overnight.


To make the gastrique, slowly caramelize some sugar in a pan and then pour in an equal quantity of the pickling vinegar and a couple sprigs of thyme. Let the liquid reduce to a syrup, but don’t reduce to far. Pick out the thyme sprigs, and set the sauce aside.


Preheat the oven to about 220°C and get a oven proof sauté pan on a high heat. Dig out the legs from the fat and carefully scrape off and excess fat. Place the legs skin side down in the searingly hot pan and cook for a few minutes then transfer to the oven for about 5 minutes. Place the legs on a board and set aside to rest for a couple of minutes.

While the duck is resting, toast some hazelnuts and sauté the sliced beetroot in some olive oil until caramelised. Toss all together with some chopped parsley.

Pâté de Campagne

I bought myself a wee early Christmas present, a Le Creuset Terrine, I’ve always wanted one but the price tag has put me off until now, however I had plans for my contributions toward the Christmas fare and it seemed as good of an excuse as any to indulge myself. I’ve previously mentioned the Walnut bread and Chicken Liver Pâté, but they were mere sides to my ambitious plans, well maybe not that ambitious, of Pâté de Campagne is pretty simple to put together, although the mincer from hell almost broke my wrist but apart from that it’s just few simple steps and patience.

You’ll have to excuse the lack of gram measurements, as these will depend on how large your terrine is. Also if you can get pork liver, great, if not use chicken, the same can be said of caul fat which I couldn’t get my hands on so I used very fatty belly bacon.


Meat
2 parts pork shoulder
1 part pork back fat
1 part liver

Trim the livers and cut in half, cut the back fat and should in to cubes small enough to fit through your mincer feeder. Chuck the whole lot in a bowl that will fit in your fridge.


Marinade
Brandy
White wine
Sage
Thyme
Parsley
Shallots
Nutmeg
Pink Salt (optional, use 1% by weight of the meat)

Roughly chop the herbs and shallots and toss into the bowl with the meat, grate in nutmeg to taste. Pour in a glass of wine and a splash of brandy. Add the pink salt if you’re using. Stir through and cover. Refrigerate overnight.


Other
Streaky bacon/caul fat
1 egg
Salt (around 2% by weight, this can be adjusted later)

Set your mincer up with a medium die and pass through the meat mixture. Using your fingers mix through the salt and egg. Take a small portion and wrap in cling film, making it water tight, and poach in some simmering water until cooked, taste and adjust the seasoning as needed, remember that the terrine is served cool so the seasoning will be more muted.


Line the terrine with the bacon (or fat) and pour in the minced mixture. Tap the terrine on the bench to get rid of any air pockets. Fold the bacon over the top of the mixture and place on the lid. Place the terrine in a bain-marie (with hot water) and into an oven set at 150–160°C, cook for about 2.5 hours, or until the internal temperature is about 70°C (65°C should be enough though).


Remove from the bain-marie and let cool, then weigh down a tight fitting lid with a couple of cans, use a stiff piece of cardboard cut to the correct shape and wrap in tin foil, refrigerate overnight.

Serve with pickled onions, cornichons, hot mustard and my walnut flat bread.

Walnut Flat Bread

Well as I mentioned in my last post about chicken liver pâté I had also whipped up a batch of walnut bread and pâté de campagne, I’m afraid you’ll have to wait a little longer for the pâté de campagne recipe as this is all about walnut flat bread today. Also slightly off topic, I have finally got myself a proper URL, exciting huh, it was hard choosing exactly how to get “good food in a crap kitchen” into an address that was manageable but as I notice most people shorten me to “crapkitchen” I settled on www.crapkitchen.com terribly original i know!

Walnut Flat Bread (Makes 8)
700 g White flour
300 g Whole wheat flour
150 g Walnuts, finely chopped
600 ml Lukewarm water
20 g Yeast
20 g Salt

Stir the yeast into the water and let it sit for about 10 minutes for the yeast to activate, a good foam should form.


In a large bowl mix together all the other ingredients, make a well and pour the liquid into it. Form into a rough ball and leave to rest for 15 minutes. Tip out of the bowl and work the dough into a log about 60 cm in length, fold in half and repeat. Do this for about 10 minutes or until the dough is smooth and elastic, much like the method I use in my hand pulled noodles, you can knead traditionally if you prefer but I find this method is faster and creates a more elastic dough. Place the dough back in the bowl, cover and let rise for about an hour.

Preheat the oven to 180°C, on fan forced. Divide the dough into eight. Take a portion of dough and roll into a round, 2mm thick, repeat with the remaining dough, lay each round between cling film to prevent sticking. Bake each round in the oven for 15 minutes, you should be able to do two at a time if you have a fan oven. When cooked transfer to a rack and cover with a tea towel. The bread will crisp further as it cools.

Chicken liver pâté

Well it’s the season again, drink, eat and be merry, fortunately I had a little self control this year and managed to not overindulge, well in the food department anyway. It was hard though, christmas day greeted us with two hams, a turkey, a side of beef, mutton and a glut of tasty sides. I'm usually not one to shy away from a tasty piece of ham and had to restrain myself not to eat the lot. I suppose the only good fortune is that I don’t have a sweet tooth as we were bombarded with a barrage of desserts, but I only had eyes for the ham.

I did contribute a little fare to the table, pâté de campagne, chicken liver pâté and a walnut flat bread. The former really an excuse, a good one, to use my christmas present to myself a new terrine, however I’ll get to that later, today is all about pâté.

Chicken liver pâté
500 g butter
1 kg chicken livers (trimmed and cut in half)
250 ml cream
125 ml brandy
5 shallots, diced
A bunch of thyme
Salt and pepper

Take two thirds of the butter (by eye is fine) slice into cubes and place in the fridge. Divide the remaining butter into four, this will be used to cook the livers in three batches and the final lot to soften the shallots.

Melt a portion of butter in a medium-hot frying pan and when the foam subsides add in a third of the livers, cook about two minutes per side, they should be pink in the middle with no signs of blood. Transfer to a bowl. Repeat with the remaining the remaining two thirds of butter and liver.

When the livers are cooked and resting in a bowl add the last lot of butter to the pan and add the shallots, cook until translucent, add the thyme and cook until fragrant. I usually don’t bother stripping the leaves off the branch, rather I just tie them together so I can easily remove once they have given up their flavour. Pull out the thyme bundle, if using, and add the brandy and flambé, when the flames subside add the cream and reduce by about half. Pour on top of the cooked livers.

Transfer the lot to a food processor and blitz, while the machine is running add the cubed butter piece by piece until it is all incorporated. Transfer the purée to a sieve set over a bowl and work it through using the back of a spoon, and to torture your hands further, take the sieved mixture and place in a very fine mouli and work through. It may seem like a little overkill passing it through a sieve and mouli but it’s worth it for the texture.

Taste and season the pâté, take into account that when the pâté cools the seasoning will dull, so it’s best to over season slightly. Transfer to a dish and crack over a little black pepper and cover with some clarified butter. Cover and chill in the fridge.

Butter Burgers

BBQ season well and truly on us it’s time to get the covers off, clean up the winters neglect and get grilling. I love getting a few burger patties on the grill, don’t have to worry about smoking the house out and you get a nice char only really achievable on a BBQ, even better if you have a charcoal grill. I like to keep the patties quite simple, salt, pepper and good beef, don’t knead it to much but gently shape it so it’s just holding together. To really gild the lily I’ve take to folding in grated frozen smoked butter, it adds a great flavour to the burger and of course makes it extra luxurious too.

Duck Confit

When life gives you the opportunity to buy 4 ducks legs for a completely crazy price of $10, those moments should be embraced, I was at, of all places, the local supermarket in Karori where I spied a pair of packets of a pair of duck legs heavily reduced by a third because the expiry date was looming. I swear they never sell at this supermarket and sit in the fridge until they are reduced. So they were swiftly procured with the aim to cure and confit. Small problem was the lack of duck fat, but no matter the legs got deposited in the freezer until I managed to pick some up, which I also managed to snap up cheaply at Moore Wilson’s bulk section, they sell duck fat frozen a lot cheaper than they do ‘fresh’.

I’ve previously posted about sous vide duck confit, but this time I wanted to do it traditionally and also give this lot a chance to age submerged and protected in its fat, so at the moment I have four portions in the fridge and an agonising wait for at least a month before I dig beneath the lush white fat and dig out a leg or two.


Duck confit is simple to prepare just a little planning and patience, but it’s all pretty much hands off work. You’ll need enough Kosher salt to coat the legs, I used about a cup, and a good bunch of thyme. In a bowl bash the thyme and salt together to release the aromatics, toss the legs in the salt and pat on the salt, then in a dish just large enough to fit the legs in a single layer make a bed with the thyme and enough salt to cover the bottom, lay the legs in the dish and pat on any remaining salt, make sure all the flesh is covered. Cover the dish in clingfilm and refrigerate for 24 hours.


Remove the duck from the salt, rinse and thoroughly pat dry with some paper towels or clean tea towel, place the legs in a ceramic or non-reactive metal oven dish just big enough to hold them. Scatter over a couple of bay leaves, peppercorns and peeled cloves of garlic. Heat enough fat to cover the duck in a pot to 100°C. Carefully pour the fat over the duck and place the lid on the dish, or cover in tinfoil. Put the dish in an oven preheated to 100°C and cook for 4 hours. You can tell it’s cooked when the flesh is pulling away from the bone.


Remove the dish from the oven and leave it somewhere until it’s cool enough to handle. Carefully remove the legs from the fat and place them into a sterile container. Ladle the fat through a sieve into a bowl, be careful not to disturb the layer of liquid on the bottom it will spoil the confit, it is confit jelly and is an amazing stock for sauces, pour enough fat over the duck to submerge it and then cover with some clingfilm and leave to until cool enough to transfer to the fridge, any left over fat can be frozen and reused for the next batch of confit or roasting potatoes, you should get a couple of confits out of it before it becomes too salty. Pour the jelly through a sieve into a container and refrigerate.

The confit should last six months in the fridge, and I’m planning on aging my batch for a month, but you could just refrigerate overnight and cook the next day. When ready to eat the lush legs remove the confit from the fridge a couple of hours before to let the fat soften, preheat the oven to 220°C, carefully dig the legs out and gently scrape off any excess fat, place skin side down on a very hot oven proof sauté pan and cook for 5 minutes, the skin must be crisp, place in the oven and cook for 5–10 minutes.

Mustard

Why have I not made my own mustard before? I have no idea. Well I’ve made up mustard from powder with a little water or wine, but not from the whole seeds, not properly. It’s dead simple too, it takes all of 10 minutes, well that and 48 hours of waiting and couple of weeks for it to age into something you actually want to eat, as it is rather bitter fresh.


Pour into a bowl half a cup of brown mustard seeds, used for the heat, and half a cup of yellow mustard seeds, add 1 cup of liquid, I used some leftover sparkling wine, 200 ml of white wine vinegar, add a dash of salt, cover with clingfilm and leave for 48 hours. After the long agonising wait pour the mixture into a blender, add some sugar now if you want, I prefer not to, and whizz up for about a minute, it won't form a smooth paste but rather semi whole grain. Transfer the mustard to a sterilised jar and keep in the fridge for a few months, leave it a week or two before you start eating it as the bitterness will dull as it ages. I also imagine you could can it if you wanted to keep it indefinitely, but I don’t know what the heating process would do to the flavour development.

Lamb heart with salsa verde

With offal becoming more mainstream I am beginning to see a wide range of some quality offerings up front and centre of all places at the supermarket. I was picking up a few things for dinner as the other half was out for the night when I spied some rather tasty looking lamb hearts, and a bargain too, knowing full well I’d be pushing water uphill if I ever tried to offer up some to her it seemed like providence, so they were grabbed up.


I decided to keep things reasonably simple, the heart is cleaned and broken down, arteries, valves  sinew and little blood clots removed. The pieces of meat set aside as I prepared a simple salsa verde, very finely diced parsley combined with garlic and white anchovy broken down to a paste with a back of a knife, lemon juice, salt, pepper and good quality olive oil. Let the salsa sit as long as you can, the more time you give it the better the flavour will be.


The heart meat was tossed to lightly coat in some oil, and then a little salt and pepper sprinkled over, then the pieces were cooked medium rare like a steak in a screaming hot pan for probably not even a minute a side, but depends on how big the piece is. As I was just serving myself, I was a bit little rustic on the presentation, a good schmear of salsa down on a board, and each piece of meat sliced to show of it’s juicy interior then arranged on the salsa verde, a little pile of salt and pepper to adjust the seasoning as you need it.

Savoury oats with braised fennel and chicken

Oats aren't just for breakfast. A savoury concoction can be made by easily substituting milk or water for chicken stock and maybe simmering with a little shallot and garlic. It takes a little to get your head around the fact that the silky lush and oh so meaty tasting concoction are oats, or perhaps it’s just me the has them relegated to the humble position of if cooked in liquid it’s porridge and should be sweet. Other grains such as rice don’t seem to have the problem, rice as a carb on a plate for dinner, or congee a savoury porridge, or as rice pudding a sticky sweet mess, so why not oats?

Savoury Oats
One cup of oats with a diced shallot and two cups of chicken stock are added to a pot over a low heat, stir occasionally to begin with and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook for about 20 minutes, stirring more frequently as the oats thicken. They’re cooked when thick creamy and soft but still with a bit of bite, not sludge. Stir through fennel fronds and a splash of good olive oil. Season with salt.


Fennel Braise
Cut whole fennel into wedges, finely slice an onion, dice a spicy chorizo and toss together in an oven dish, sprinkle over salt and add a generous splash of sweet vermouth, about quarter of cup, cover tightly with foil and bake at 150°C for about two–two and one half hours. The fennel should be meltingly tender but still holding its shape, not a mushy mess.

Chicken
Season and brown chicken thighs all over and add to the braising fennel dish for the last 30–40 minutes.


Sauce
Drain the braising liquid into a saucepan and bring to a very low simmer. Make a paste of one teaspoon arrowroot and two teaspoons of water. Remove the pot from the heat and whisk in the paste. If it doesn't thicken straight away put it back on the heat and stir constantly, it will thicken quickly.

Asparagus with Egg and Soy Butter Sauce

Eggs are placed in 75ºC water for 13 minutes, then removed to an ice bath to stop the cooking process. Meanwhile asparagus is sliced in two, beans top and tailed and likewise cut into manageable portions and spinach sliced. A pot put on a low heat with a good portion of butter and generous pinch or three of pepper added, soy sauce is swirled into the melted butter. The eggs now move to 60ºC water to heat through for 10 minutes. The vegetables are sautéed in a little butter, and when cooked tossed with a little bit of the soy-butter. A nest of greens placed in the bowl, a warmed through egg cracked and slid out to nestle in place, a glaze of soy-butter spooned over and around and finished with a sprinkling of bonito flakes.